Poker Pfr Meaning

Learning To Read and Interpret Poker Tracking Software Stats

1. Poker Pfr Meaning Dictionary
2. Poker Pfr Definition
3. Poker Pfr Meaning List
4. Poker Pfr Meaning Slang
5. Poker Pfr Meaning Synonyms

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• I recently started playing online poker, and one of the statistics listed in the available tables is P/F%. I know pf to mean preflop but I don't see how that is a percentage. If anyone knows what it means that would be much appreciated.
• PFR Poker (Preflop Raise) Simply put, the PFR poker statistic tells you about how often a particular player enters the pot with a raise. This serves as a much more oriented number as it gives you a clearer image about the level of aggression your opponent is used to playing with.

Poker tracking software such as Poker Tracker or Holdem Manager are programs that extract and compile data from hand histories where all actions by you and your opponent's are recorded, resulting in detailed statistical analysis which can give a clearer picture of how someone is playing and how to play against them. It's also a great aid for improving your own game. It is practically a necessity for online play these days and when used effectively, it will greatly improve your win rate. The long lists of statistics they provide you with may seem daunting or overwhelming at first, just focus on a small number of key statistics and add a new one each time you reach a level of confidence in interpreting each statistic on your HUD. It's important not to over load your HUD with a wide range of stats that you don't comprehend, take things one stat at a time. If you're having difficulty setting up your HUD configuration, most poker training sites host video guides for this.

Using Tracker Software to improve your game

At the end of every session or day it's a good idea to go back through your biggest winners or losers or any other interesting hands and review them. You should learn to recognise if you made any mistakes and try not to repeat them in future. If there are any hands that confused you or you'd like more opinions on, you should consider converting them and posting them on a poker forum for advice. It's always good to hear a variety of opinions on hands you're unsure of. For ease of writing, I'll refer to a continuation bet as 'cbet'.

Using Tracking Software to track your opponents play

When reading blogs and forums etc. you'll often see players, or villains, described as things like 22/18/2, but what does it mean? The first number is VPIP, the second is PFR and the third is AF.

Voluntarily Put $ In Pot % or VPIP

This shows how tight, or loose someone is playing pre-flop, it is the best tool for estimating a player's range of hands. You want your opponent's VPIP number to be as big as possible at low stakes, the more hands they play the worse they usually are. You need a sample size of at least 100 hands to be confident assigning ranges based on this statistic.

<15% is very tight. These players are only playing super premium hands from early position and only still maintain a conservative range when in position.

15% - 22% is tight. They will usually be a bit looser from early position then the <15% players, make notes on whether they play pocket pairs from early position, or whether they raise or limp. They will tend to have a much wider range in late position.

22% - 30% is semi loose. They'll usually open all PPs and strong non pair hands, like suited broadways and strong aces, from early position. They will have a wide range from late position.

30% - 40% is considerably loose. These players are usually playing far too many hands in all positions and should make for easy winnings.

40% - 60% is maniac loose. They're playing all sorts of trash from every possible position, these are the type of players you really want at your table, though they are becoming much rarer these days.

>60% is free money.

Pre-flop Raise % or PFR

This is the percentage of hands your opponent is raising pre-flop. It must always be less or equal their VPIP and should be analyzed in context with their VPIP. A 60/18 is not that aggressive, while a 20/18 is an extremely aggressive player. Again you need a minimum sample size of at least 50 hands to have any confidence in this stat.

If their PFR is very small (<5%) then you don't need to worry about getting raised off marginal hands. If they do raise you can fold nearly all speculative hands unless you have the implied odds to call and stack them with a pocket pair for example, the deeper you're playing the wider the range of hands you can call with.

If their PFR is <1/2 their VPIP, then this player is quite passive pre-flop and limping over 50% of hands they play.

If PFR is between 50% - 75% of VPIP then they're raising more than they're limping, but they're not overly aggressive.

Any player with a ratio >75% is raising the majority of their hands and they're playing aggressively pre-flop.

Aggression Factor or AF

This is an indicator of post-flop aggression. It is calculated by the following formula (raise% + bet%)/(call%) post-flop. It's the ratio of times a player is aggressive against the times they're passive. You need at least 100 – 200 sample size of hands to be sure of this stat but more hands for tighter players.

It's essential to look at this in the context of VPIP and other statistics to interpret what it means. One of the limitations of Aggression Factor is that it doesn't include fold %, so two players with the same AF could have very different ranges they raise.

A weak-tight nit with a VPIP of 12% is going to make much stronger hands on average and fold his marginal hands more often then a maniac with a VPIP of 65% who bets and raises with random hands.

The weak-tight nit will have a high AF because he often folds unless he has the nuts so a raise from him will often mean a strong hand. The maniac on the other hand might have the same AF but since he's playing more hands pre-flop and folding fewer hands post-flop his range for raising will be far larger.

It's important to be able to tell what type of player you're playing against. Take note of the type of hands they go to show down with, a maniac will lose a lot of hands at showdown while the nit will go to showdown infrequently and often with nothing but very strong holdings. Using AF with WtSD, W$SD and W$WSF (explained soon) will give you a better idea what type of player you're up against. Looking at how they react to cbets can also be a useful indicator.

Rough Guidelines For Aggression Factor or AF

<1.5 is passive, these players are calling a lot and betting/raising very little, a raise from these players usually means a strong hand. You can value bet lighter against these opponents because they tend to call with wide ranges.

1.5 – 2.5 is about average. These players aren't overly aggressive post-flop but it's important to look at it in the context of their VPIP and other stats.

2.5 – 3.5 is aggressive. Be prepared to assign a wider range to bets and raises.

>3.5 is very aggressive. These players prefer to bet or raise rather then call and may do so lightly. Against these players it may be profitable to induce bluffs. As mentioned, in some cases a high AF can be an indication of a high fold%, so don't just assume they're raising you light.

Won $ When Saw Flop % (W$WSF)

Is how often a player wins the pot when he sees a flop; this gives a good indication of how aggressive a player is post-flop.

>45% – this player is likely to be extremely aggressive post-flop and is probably firing multiple barrels. It's also likely this player goes too far with marginal holdings, usually indicates a maniac.

40% – 45% – this player is playing aggressively, most commonly a good TAG/LAG

35% - 40% - this player is slightly passive post-flop, he gives up easily and may be playing too many hands pre-flop. Usually indicates a weak-tight post-flop player.

<35% - this player is giving up far too easily and may be playing too many hands pre-flop. Usually means that the player is nitty.

Went to Showdown % (WtSD) – How often a player gets to showdown when he sees a flop. The higher this number is the more likely the player is to be a calling station and the lighter you can value bet. The lower the number the more you can bluff and the less inclined you should be to value bet. This should be looked at with W$SD.

<22%, this player is fairly nitty and doesn't get to showdown often, most likely has a high W$SD

22% – 27%, indicates a reasonably tight range and is the most common, should be looked at in terms of W$SD.

27% - 33%, fairly loose range for getting to showdown, a low W$SD would indicate a calling station while a high W$SD would usually indicate a competent LAG.

>33%, this player is almost definitely going too far with his hands. Value bet relentlessly.

Won $ at Showdown % (W$SD)

Represents how often a player wins $ at showdown. This can give a approximate measure of a player's post-flop skill, the higher the number the more likely an opponent is to have the winning hand at showdown.

This really needs to be looked at in context with a player's WtSD and they're overall style of play. A maniac is likely to have a low W$SD while a smart, aggressive player's will be higher. A good LAG will have a high W$SD where a bad LAG wouldn't. This will also separate the nits from the TAGs. You can bluff frequently and use smaller bet sizes against players with high W$SD as they're likely to be weak tight. On the other hand a player with a low W$SD is likely calling too much so we can value bet lighter and bet bigger against them.

>55%, this player probably isn't going to showdown too often and can be bluffed more frequently.

48% - 55%, fairly common for TAGs/LAGs, look at in terms of WtSD.

<48%, usually has the worst hand at showdown, value bet relentlessly and don't bluff them.

BB/100 – Lets you know if the player is winning over the sample. A good stat to have up on your own play if you generally multi-table, it will tell you what your table image is like for each table. If you're down a good bit on the table then your image will be bad and you will get called and played back at lighter. If you're up a good bit, haven't shown down much (or only strong hands) your image is likely to be good and you'll have more steal and fold equity at that table.

Total Hands Played (Hands) – One of the most critical stats you can have on your HUD. This tells you how much weight you can attribute to their stats. VPIP and PFR only become meaningful after roughly 50 hands, AF after about 200-500 hands depending on how loose the player is. W$SD and W$WSF will need several thousand hands to be truly accurate so should be used carefully, WtSD will become accurate a lot faster though.

Aggression Factor by Street (FlopAF/TurnAF/RiverAF)

These three stats displayed can give you a good idea of what type of player you're up against.

A player with high flop AF will be cbetting frequently, use this with Cbet% to determine how likely a player is to cbet.

A player with low flop AF and unusually high turn AF (>2) is most likely a floater. They tend to have a fairly high Call PFR % as well as a high Call Cbet %.

A player with high flop and turn AFs will often be firing a double barrel, if they have a high W$WSF and Cbet% with a fairly low WtSD you can be fairly confident they will fire 2nd barrels.

A player with low flop and turn AF and high river AF is usually a fish; they like to see all the cards before betting and are often calling stations as well.

A player with normal flop and turn AFs but with a low river AF (<2) is often turning their hand into a bluff catcher on the river, they prefer to check/call then bet/fold. Conversely a player with a high river AF will be bet/folding more of their marginal hands and you can raise their bets as a bluff more often.

Attempt to Steal Blinds % (AttSB)

Another exceptionally useful stat, it can determine whether or not a player is aware position dynamics. It needs to be considered in context with PFR. If their AttSB is significantly higher then their PFR then they're most likely aware of the power of positional and you can give more respect to their UTG opens and less to their cut off/button opens. A high Fold SB/BB to steal % is another solid sign that they know what they're doing.

A player with a high AttSB who is opening from the cutoff and particularly the button is an excellent candidate to consider 3beting light. If they also have a high Cbet% then you could consider calling light with the intention of c/ring (or just raising if your on the button) their cbet. Pocket pairs go down in value against these types of players since you can't expect to get paid off often enough even if you hit gin.

<20% - These players aren't taking advantage of their position and are giving up a lot of value. We would like this type of player in LP when we're in the blinds.

20% – 27% - these players aren't stealing too light and we can give their cutoff/button opens a tighter range. We're not losing much against this type of player.

27% – 35% - these players are stealing fairly lightly, we should assign a wider range to their late position raises and 3bet them more often as they're likely to be getting out of line.

>35% – these players are stealing pretty light and are often raising many of trashy hands. We can 3bet more hands for value and we should be 3betting them frequently as their opening range can't take too much pressure.

Continuation Bet Percentage

Tells us how often a player bets or raises the flop after raising the pot pre-flop. At micro levels players should be cbetting pretty often, however at small-mid stakes this would be burning money. Pay attention to PFR and AttSB, a player with a very low PFR most likely has a big hand when he cbets and should be given credit. A player with a high PFR and high Cbet% will have a much wider range when they cbet.

>85%, this player is continuation betting almost always and is unlikely to be paying attention to the number of opponents or the flop texture. You can raise and call them lighter. These are also prime candidates for floating unless of course they are prone to firing multiple barrels. If they do fire 2nd barrels often then you can be more inclined to slowplay monsters, or call down lightly against them trying to induce bluffs.

65% - 85%, this player is probably playing closer to optimally at small-mid stakes and is going to be much harder to exploit.

<65%, this player doesn't cbet often enough. We can see more flops with them and take the pot away when they check. However, they should be given more credit when they do cbet, as with a low frequency, once they start betting, it's generally because they've connected reasonably well with the flop.

Bet River %

How frequently a player bets the river. It's important to be aware of what type of villain you are facing. A lot of weaker players like to check call cbets and then bet the river after the turn checks through. They often assume you would have bet a made hand on the turn and believe they can win the pot by betting. Maniacs are probably bluffing the river too frequently.

>30%, this player is likely betting a lot of weak or marginal hands on the river. Adjust your range and be prepared to call these players down lighter.

20% - 30%, this player is betting the river quite frequently, they may bet-fold more often then check-call.

<20%, this player should be given a lot more respect on the river.

Fold SB/BB to steal %

This statistic is very handy and can tell you how likely your steal attempts are to be successful. A player with a low fold blind to steal % is defending regularly. If they also have a high call cbet% then stealing light is unlikely to be successful. If a player has a high fold blind to steal % or a high fold to cbet % then you can steal extremely lightly but be prepared to shutdown against resistance.

>90%, playing super tight OOP, attack mercilessly.

80% - 90%, still playing fairly tight and a good target for steals, the higher their fold to cbet % the better.

70% - 80%, very player dependent, o.k. steal targets if they give up easily post-flop. Not great targets if they're competent players.

<70%, calling too much OOP and will find it difficult to make hands or continue post-flop without the betting lead, highly exploitable but not great targets to steal light against.

Calls PFR %

This is a very useful tool to use with Fold SB/BB to steal. If they have a low Call PFR (less then about 5% – 6%) and a low Fold SB/BB to steal (less then about 70% – 75%) it's very likely they are 3betting light and you can adjust.

Fold/Call/Raise cbet %

These extremely useful stats to display on your hud . They can show you how an opponent is likely to react to your cbet.

Fold to cbet %

This is the most critical stat of all cbet% stats. It's important to know how likely your cbet is to be successful and who you should cbet against.

This is a rough guideline for fold to cbet percentages:

<50%, cbetting against them is often just burning money, they are calling stations and chase too lightly. Value bet them relentlessly, but don't bother cbetting with air on boards likely to have hit their range. Cbetting on dry boards heads-up can sometimes be ok though.

50% - 70%, they're probably not huge calling stations but may play back or chase with marginal hands or draws.

70% - 80%, likely to only be putting money in with a reasonable hand and probably aren't chasing too lightly.

>80%, should nearly always be cbet against in heads- up pots, they need a good hand to continue and usually won't have it.

Call and Raise cbet Percentage

Very useful when deciding how to play marginal draws on the flop. Against players with high raise cbet compared to call cbet we should be more inclined to check behind a weak hand like a gutshot or a hand we don't want to get raised off. If the player rarely raises cbets and is more likely to call if he's continuing then we can bet these hands and expect to see a turn and river if we don't take the pot down straight away. It's also more likely that we get to see all 5 cards this way.

A raise cbet % >15 would be fairly high and can be given less respect. Be wary of players whose raise % is larger then their call %.

You can also work out what a donk bet is likely to mean. A player who never raises cbets that has donk bet is likely to be donk betting their strongest hands and conversely a player with a high raise cbet % who donk bets is often weak and should be raised.

Fold To Flop Bet

Quite similar to fold to cbet% but this applies only to unraised pots, the figures are usually quite close.

Cold Call Percentage

Will indicate how often they call a raise with no money already invested. Anything above 2 indicates that a player is probably calling pre-flop raises with marginal or trash holdings. You can assign a wider range to them and you should be less inclined to steal from the CO if they're on the button.

General Advice

You don't want to be basing decisions off incorrect information. If a player gets up and another takes his place before the stats refresh you could make some very costly mistakes.

I also include most of the other stats I don't have displayed in the pop-up screen, you never know when you might need it.

It's possible to put up stats on your own play for the session. I highly recommend doing this as it can give you a good indicator of what your image is likely to be. I have VPIP, PFR, AF, AttSB, Cbet%, BB/100 and Hands displayed.

Summary

As you can see you will require large sample sizes for many statistics to bear any significant relevance, but even when you do have large sample sizes, it's important not to be overly reliant on these stats. Note taking is still vitally important, this can't be stressed enough. It's also vitally important that you use Poker Tracker and Holdem Manager statistics as an aid in your overall decision making process, don't rely solely on stats to base your decisions.

Article updated and republished in 2012 from RedJoker article, originally published in 2007. Although you may need to tweak figures to reflect the more aggressive games, this is still an excellent guide that has stood the test of time.

While building an entire poker strategy around set mining is no longer a viable path to being a winning player, it is still important to fully understand the concept. In the right situation, this tool is undoubtedly useful when implemented correctly. I myself am a reformed “nut camper” and can tell you everything you need to know about it.

What is set mining in poker? Set mining is when you call with a pocket pair with the intention of trying to flop a set. It is a form of “nut camping” which means that you flat call a pre-flop raise with a speculative hand hoping to flop a strong hand so that you can win a pot large enough to overcome your pre-flop pot odds.

Now, I will describe exactly what set mining as well as provide an easy to learn process for deciding whether or not you should speculate. I’ll also cover how factors related to the table dynamic can influence the profitability of nut camping in any given situation.

What Is a Set Mining in Poker?

If you play on a poker site that allows you to track long term statistics on opponents, you will occasionally encounter an opponent with overly tight stats. I’m talking something like 14/10 (VPIP/PFR) for 6-max and 10/7 for full-ring. These are not only rocks but probably also nut camping set miners.

Set miners will open raise a very tight range, 3-bet with a low frequency, but flat call with every single pocket pair below QQ with the intention of trying to hit a set and win a big pot. You may even see them call with all of their suited connectors for the same reason.

Spotting Nut Campers= Saving Your Stack

Extreme nut campers, who build their games entirely around mining, will have stats something like 18/10 for 6-max and 14/6 for 9-max. Being able to spot them is a useful skill to have, for obvious reasons. Because if they call, and then suddenly get interested post-flop by calling or raising your continuation bet, look out.

Ultimately, set mining is a loser’s strategy in today’s games. Those that employ this “nitty” strategy will get eaten alive by the blinds as their opponents steal their blinds relentlessly and push them out of pots when they hold marginal hands.

However, if you are able to recognize the correct conditions, and exhausted all other avenues to profit in that spot, nut camping with both pocket pairs and other speculative hands is a powerful tool.

Profitable Set Mining Guidelines

Whenever you are faced with a situation where you hold a speculative hand and are facing pre-flop aggression, there is a really simple process you can use to weigh whether you have the right price and if mining is a viable option.

Here are 4 conditions to look for when making pre-flop calls with the intention of set mining. While each one is not going to give the whole story, I’ll show you how to weigh them carefully and make solid decisions based on all the information available.

1. Make Sure 3-Betting Is Not +EV

First off, it’s easy to sometimes forget that it’s almost always better to take an aggressive +EV action rather than a passive one. Therefore, don’t forget to consider a reraise before resigning yourself to a flat call.

I have run enumerable scenarios through the Cardrunner’s EV software and studied my own database extensively on this point. The conclusions are always the same. If raising or reraising is +EV (Positive expectation), then that is the action that should be taken.

So, forget about the typical excuses people find to play passively. Things like “seeing what develops” or “realizing equity” or “trapping” or whatever helps you sleep at night. Just raise the dang thing and move on. Your win-rate will love you for it.

However, if the value in raising is murky then, by all means, consider taking the passive route. But, only if you are fairly certain the path forward is profitable. Otherwise, shutting down or folding is probably the best play.

How can you be sure that nut camping is the way to go? The best way is to look at the odds.

2. Have Direct Odds of at Least 2 to 1

Before even looking at implied odds, a good rule of thumb is to make sure you are getting a decent direct odds price on your call. Because, in the end, you are going to have to play post-flop without initiative and need favorable odds to win that uphill battle.

For example, if someone has opened for 4x (4 times the big blind) and you are on the button with deuces, just do the math. In non-ante games, there would be 5.5 big blinds in the pot and you’d have to call 4 big blinds. That’s 1.4 to 1 odds. Since you fail on this guideline, you’d need the next couple of conditions to be exceptionally favorable to make the call.

Additionally, if you are out of position, you may want to be even more strict. Personally, I look for at least 3 to 1 odds to flat call when out of position, unless I have a strong range on range advantage and a hand with good post-flop playability.

3. Have Implied Odds of at Least 20 to 1

Having reasonable direct odds is just the starting point of your decision-making process. You also need to look at how much you could potentially win after the flop.

There are two main considerations when thinking about implied odds:

1. Are you deep enough- If the cost of calling divided by the effective stack is at least 20 to 1, then it may be worth considering a call. Since you only hit a set once in 7.5 times, there needs to be enough money behind to win in case you do flop your set.
2. Is the dynamic favorable to playing a big pot post-flop- Think about how likely it is that your opponent will be willing to put more money in the pot post-flop. An opponent having a tight positional opening range or if it is a 3-bet pot are favorable for it being a high implied odds situations. Loose opponents and single-raised pots tend to make it a lower implied odds spot. The exception is if you are playing against a maniac, who will almost always make the implied odds high.

Here are some reasonable guidelines for minimum implied odds needed for set mining in various dynamics:

This hand is a good example of these considerations:

Poker Pfr Meaning Dictionary

PokerStars, Hold’em No Limit – $0.50/$1.00 – 6 players

Nitty Reg (UTG): $131.73
Weak Tight (MP): $104.13
Mass Multi-Tabler (CO): $227.79
Wide Stealer (BU): $28.50
Rock (SB): $234.86
Hero (BB): $118.65

Pre-Flop: ($1.50) Hero is BB with 9♠ 9♣
3 players fold, Wide Stealer (BU) raises to $4.00, 1 fold, Hero ?

Poker Pfr Definition

At first glance to some, this might look like a good spot to call and see a flop.

Look again.

While calling with mid pairs to try and flop a set against a tight opener might be a reasonable play, the Villain in question is on the button. You have a read that he steals wide, which means you aren’t necessarily going to be able to win a big pot against his wide range even when you do hit a set. Also, you are only getting 1.8 to 1 to call and will be playing out of position. This will be a difficult spot to show a profit even if you are highly skilled post-flop.

Last, take a look at the Villain’s stack size. 29 big blinds! Since you can confidently call off a 4-bet shove versus him, go ahead and commit pre-flop by 3-betting to something like 10 or 12 big blinds. If he calls for that price, you can profitably shove on any flop.

4. Other Considerations

Before finalizing your decision, two other factors should be weighed:

1. Is the pot multiway? If so, you can expect your implied odds to be a bit greater since there are now two other ranges involved that can connect with the boat.
2. Are you closing the action? If you still have people left to act behind you, you need to have higher implied odds. After all, the person behind you can squeeze or back raise and force you to give up your hand without even seeing a flop. The more opponents left to act, the more implied odds you need.

Hands to Consider Mining With

Poker Pfr Meaning List

Nut camping can be done with hands other than pocket pairs. Speculative hands can really be anything, I mean 72o can flop two pair or trips right?

Unfortunately, you will almost never have good enough implied odds to play a holding that weak. Generally, you need to be able to flop some kind of equity fairly often even if you don’t make a monster hand. Therefore, suited and connected hands are best for this purpose.

Hands to consider calling with:

• Suited Connectors or Semi-Connectors- Hands like 76s, 97s, and T8s are good candidates. Just remember that T6s, while connected, cannot flop nearly as many straight combinations are T9s. Therefore, you will need higher implied odds with the former.
• Suited High Cards- Hands such as A4s and K7s are reasonable to try and flop a disguised two-pair, a flush, or a strong flush draw. However, just make sure you don’t overcommit with a weak top pair or else you will defeat the entire purpose of nut camping in the first place.

What If I Flop a Non-Nut Hand?

Poker Pfr Meaning Slang

This is the rub of the green. More often than not, you will flop some kind of marginal hand instead of the nuts. Just remember in these cases that you had a plan pre-flop as well as huge implied odds.

And, while you want to still play good poker and maximize the situation, you do not need to become a play machine and try to run some crazy bluff everything you miss your hand. Just take what the poker Gods give you and move on.

What If I Flop the Nuts?

Dumb question right? The funny thing is, I see people misplay this all the time.

By far, the biggest mistake I see is that people do not try to get the money all-in after they hit a big hand.

Often it goes something like this: We call. They check. We check. They check. We check. We feebly bet half pot. They call and show a weak top or 2nd pair.

Poker Pfr Meaning Synonyms

Facepalm moment right? After you may a huge hand, you simply HAVE to try and get all-in to make up for the times you make your hand and miss. So please, bet, raise, and reraise. Throw away the slow-play part of your strategy.

Limping Speculative Hands Is Not Nut Camping

Generally, set mining is reserved for raised pots. This is because there are a few problems that can arise when you limp a small pair or other speculative hands. The main issue is reverse implied odds.

Reverse implied odds is when you make the hand you were trying to but an opponent makes an even stronger nut hand. Ever wonder why you seem to get beat set over set more than your fair share? It could be that you are limping small pairs in multi-way pots when 3 or more other people also are limping their small to mid pairs. The math will catch up to you eventually.

Therefore, stop limping small pairs or speculative hands outside of maybe the small blind or button. Not only are you going to get blown off your hand by an isolation raise a lot of the time, but you are also going to get coolered way too often to make it a profitable play.

Also, multi-way pots are typically played passively post-flop. Most players now understand that you need a much better hand to commit when more than two players are involved in a pot. So, even if someone flops top pair, it does not mean you are going to get them to call your raise or reraise over multiple streets. Generally, when the money goes in, you will be up against a really strong hand, like top two pair or better.

Final Thoughts

Any winning poker player loves nut campers. They are viewed as basically empty seats at the table who are easy to win against. Betting until they raise= profit.

However, don’t completely discount mining altogether because it can sometimes be the most +EV play. Imagine you have a whale behind and you hold fives in the SB. Sure, 3-betting might be slightly +EV versus a wide button opener, but calling is probably ideal. Your implied odds is through the roof in this spot should you spike a set.

Other than situations like that, employing the set mine is usually best reserved for when there are no other profitable options. My process usually has me treating a flat call as a last resort. By not abusing my call button, I have been able to enjoy over a decade of winning. I hope this information helps you equal or beat my streak. Good luck!